How to Prep your Quilt for the Longarm Quilting Service!
Curlz
Curlz Panto was used on this Minnesota Quilt
longarm quilting

Quilt to Last is your Minnesota based Long arm quilting service.

Use this handy checklist for your convenience

I’ve come up with this handy checklist so that you can have your quilt ready to go. If I only have to put it on the frame and quit it, then i can get it back to you sooner, if it’s not ready to go it costs you more money and takes longer for me to get back to you. This can all be avoided by taking some time and going over the quilt before sending it and making sure everything is set to go.
(An additional fee will be charged for each of the following services that must be performed on your quilt) I charge $20 per hour to do quilt prep. Minimum 1 hour.  So to avoid this cost please go through this list and have your quilt top ready to go!

All 3 layers separate – no basting or pins please

Top:
____loose threads trimmed
____well pressed
____seam direction checked
____no wavy borders
____squared corners
____back stitch all outside seams
____all repairs done, no open seams
____mark “TOP” with safety pin
____no embellishments please

Backing:
____no sheets please
____supply your own
____colors match quilt top
____selvages trimmed
____1/2” seams pressed open
____well pressed (starched recommended)
____ends straightened & squared
____mark “TOP” with safety pin
____at least 8” larger than top

____You can purchase from Barb-Quilt to Last

Batting:

____You can purchase from Barb-Quilt to Last
____proper type for your quilt
____supply your own-be sure it is for long arm quilting
____air fluff poly to remove creases
____at least 8” larger than top

Binding:
___supply ½-1 yd. UNCUT fabric

Quilt top preparation

NOTE: Occasionally we all have seams coming loose, wavy borders or puckers.  I would love to say these things are ok but they will cause issues when quilting your quilt, we would love to say we can “quilt it out” but we just can’t.  I have found some ways to work around these things that might make them nearly invisible, but depending on the situation it may still be noticeable.

  • Quilt tops should lay flat and be square to avoid puckering when quilted. Excess fabric in borders can result in puckering. Fullness and puckers pieced into the quilt top cannot necessarily be quilted out. I will do my best, but tops with fullness and puckers may still have them after quilting is completed.
  • Edge seams should be secured please stay-stitch 1/4″ in from the edge of
    your quilt to provide more stability.
  • Remove all excess threads and pin your name and phone number to your quilt top and backing.  Also, mark the top of your quilt top if it is not easily noticeable if you have a preference.
  • Press quilt top, seams should lay flat (press to one side).  This is really important and can make a big difference in the final look of the quilt.  Iron from the finished side (the front), and if you use starch it will be especially appreciated.  Then fold it neatly. (**Use this step to double check your seams to check for “holes” in your quilt top as well as any wavy borders.)
  • Be sure your quilt top is clean and free of pet hair and loose threads to prevent damage to our machine or show through on your finished quilt.

Quilt back preparation

Quilt backing (and batting) should be at least 8” longer and wider than your quilt top (4” all the way around bigger).  This extra fabric is a must to be able to attach the quilt to the bars of the frame.

If you piece your backing make sure to trim the selvages off as they shrink unevenly when you wash the quilt and create a puckered line.  Use a ½” seam allowance and press the seam open.  Square up your quilt back.  You can do this by folding it in quarters and using your rotary cutter and ruler to trim it even.  Again, make sure your back is at least 6” longer and wider than the quilt top.

If you choose a directional fabric for your backing fabric take that into account when piecing and please mark the top of the backing fabric.